Hugh Johnson's Pocket Wine Book 2014 by Johnson Hugh

Hugh Johnson's Pocket Wine Book 2014 by Johnson Hugh

Author:Johnson, Hugh [Johnson, Hugh]
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9781845337445
Publisher: Octopus Books
Published: 2013-09-02T04:00:00+00:00


Going backwards, fast

If you’re driving in Germany, beware of wine-growers in reverse. Why? Because the narrow farm roads that lead to steep, sloping v’yds are often dead ends, and may not have turning space. So the growers simply reverse out, fast. If they’ve got passengers it turns into a sport: full throttle, with rocks on one side and a steep slope on the other, for a couple of km. They’ve got the knack of it. We hope.

Sauer, Rainer Frank ★★★ A rising family estate at ESCHERNDORF (see HORST SAUER). Complex dry SILVANER – from elegant and mineral KABINETT to creamy, full-bodied SPÄTLESEn.

Schaefer, Willi M-S-R ★★★ The finest grower of GRAACH (but only 4ha). MOSEL RIES at its best: pure, crystalline and feather-light, rewarding at all quality levels.

Schäfer-Fröhlich Na ★★★ Increasingly brilliant RIES, dry and nobly sweet, from this estate in Bockenau, NAHE. Superb 2010 Grosses Gewächs Felseneck and breathtaking EISWEIN.

Scharzhofberg M-S-R ★★★★ 71 83 88 89 90 93 94 95 96 97 99 01 04 05 07 08 09 10 11 12 Superlative SAAR v’yd: a rare coincidence of microclimate, soil and human intelligence brings about the perfection of RIES. Top estates: BISCHÖFLICHE WEINGÜTER, EGON MÜLLER, VON HÖVEL, REICHSGRAF VON KESSELSTATT, VAN VOLXEM.

Schlossböckelheim Na ★★→★★★★ 90 97 01 02 04 05 07 08 09 10 11 12 A village with top NAHE v’yds, incl GROSSE LAGE Felsenberg and Kupfergrube. Firm, demanding RIES that ages well. Top growers incl: CRUSIUS, DÖNNHOFF, Gut Hermannsberg, SCHÄFER-FRÖHLICH.

Schloss Johannisberg Rhg ★★→★★★ 90 97 01 02 04 05 07 08 09 10 11 12 Famous RHEINGAU estate, 100% RIES, owned by Henkell (Oetker group). Usually v.gd SPÄTLESE Grünlack (green sealing-wax) and AUSLESE Rosalack, quality of the TROCKEN and FEINHERB wines more variable.

Schloss Lieser M-M ★★★→★★★★ Thomas Haag produces pure, racy RIES from underrated Niederberg Helden v’yd, as well as from plots in BRAUNEBERG. Look out for brilliant 2010 Juffer-Sonnenuhr SPÄTLESE and precise and playful 2011 SL QUALITÄTSWEIN TROCKEN.

Schloss Neuweier Bad ★★★ Leading producer of dry RIES from volcanic soils nr Baden-Baden. New owner since 2012.

Schloss Proschwitz Sachs ★★ A resurrected princely estate at Meissen in SACHSEN, leading former East Germany in quality; esp with dry WEISSBURGUNDER and GRAUBURGUNDER. A great success.

Schloss Reinhartshausen Rhg ★★→★★★ Estate in Erbach, HATTENHEIM, KIEDRICH, etc. Originally owned by Prussian royal family, now in competent private hands.

Schloss Saarstein M-S-R ★→★★★ 90 97 01 05 07 08 09 10 11 12 Steep but chilly v’yds in Serrig need warm yrs to succeed but can deliver steely, minerally and long-lived AUSLESE and EISWEIN.

Schloss Vollrads Rhg ★★ One of the greatest historic RHEINGAU estates, now owned by a bank. RIES in a rather commercial style.

Schmitt’s Kinder Frank ★★→★★★ Uncompromising TROCKEN wines from RANDERSACKER’s best v’yds. Textbook FRANKEN SILVANER and RIES. Gd barrel-aged SPÄTBURGUNDER and sweet RIESLANER, too.

Schnaitmann Würt ★★★ Excellent barrel-aged reds from WÜRTTEMBERG, such as SPÄTBURGUNDER and LEMBERGER from the GROSSE LAGE Lämmler v’yd. In conversion to organic farming.

Schneider, Cornelia and Reinhold Bad ★★→★★★ Family estate in Endingen, KAISERSTUHL. Age-worthy SPÄTBURGUNDERs (00 01 02



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